Comments for www.donjacoby.com

Comment on Fuel System by Don

Don — Tue, 23 Mar 2010 01:36:55 +0000

Sorry about being cut off; I don’t know of any “anti-ramble” gremlins on the site. I’ll ask my son-in-law webmaster about it. Again, I do appreciate and welcome any and all advice and comment.
Oh yeah, the fuel pump itself is wrapped with a fairly dense foam covering for proection. I don’t think it’s real clear in the picture.

Comment on Fuel System by Don

Don — Tue, 23 Mar 2010 01:30:03 +0000

The filter is mounted inside the frame rail; it’s the pump that’s on the outside. The fuel line was run on the inside also – it crosses over the transmission and under the firewall to reach the driver’s side of the engine where the FI fuel rail pick up is located. I secured the line with cushioned clamps to keep it from vibrating in contact with the frame as well.
No scarfing control arm mounts here; they’re stock. What is different is the lower control arms by Global West (GW). The uppers are brand new Ford OEM.
The rear was from an ‘89 Mustang that used to be a qaud shock unit. The outter shocks (anti-wheel hop stabilizers) were removed; hence the GW units for lower control arms.

Comment on Fuel System by Don

Don — Tue, 23 Mar 2010 01:23:17 +0000

Hi Joe …
If I didn’t tell you that I was drawing fuel from the sump on the bottom, I wouldn’t be telling the truth … it’s a gravity feed out the bottom to the pump. I plan to use a water absorbing additive that I used on my boat (that had aluminum gas tanks) and worked really well – never had a water-related problem in 11 years. The return line comes in on the top (opposite side).
The fuel line penetration will be grommeted as well (as soon as I can get a bigger drill bit). The stainless braided line is pretty tough but I know of what you speak. THe hole was deburred, chamfered, and smoothed but I think a grommet is still a good idea too. I have the correct size grommet – just need a bigger hole. I appreciate your thoughts on some real concerns. If it doesn’t work – we have the technology to fix it – but I’d rather not.

Comment on Fuel System by Joe Elkins

Joe Elkins — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 22:32:11 +0000

I am still here Don. Your web sight has must have “anti-ramble” software in it, as it keeps cutting me off.
The reason I mentioned the securing if your fuel line through the frame hole is from experience with a power steering line. Just a slight contact with the frame did an incredible amount of damage in a short time. I ended up repaling the line and wrapping neoprene around it. Always open for questions…You’re getting there!!!
Talk to you later..Joe

Comment on Fuel System by Joe Elkins

Joe Elkins — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 22:20:06 +0000

Continued…..
I am looking at the location of your fuel filter and it appears to be right in the location of the lower control arm mount. Did you scarf those mounts off and do something different?
Also, you might want to provide some protection for that filter as that is where the rears like to sling rocks and such. Generally, running lines and locating filters inside the frame rails is safest albeit not the most convenient for filters.

Comment on Fuel System by Joe Elkins

Joe Elkins — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 22:11:18 +0000

Hello Don,
Please tell me that you are not drawing fuel out of that sump on the bottom of the fuel tank. Fuel pick-up tubes never reach the bottom of the tank for a purpose. That is where all the crap and WATER accumulate. The filter will keep the crap out of your engine but will let water pass right on through to the cylinders. If you ever suck enough water into a cylinder it will “hydro” and bring everything to a dead stop because water will not compress. You would have to pull that cylinders spark plug in order to rotate the engine and expell the water. Also, water would not be a good thing to introduce into your fuel system anyhow if it can be avoided. If I am wrong and it is a return line??, most top mounted pick-up/sending units would have a return line built in them for that size engine. Unfortunately, H2O is common in fuel tanks. You can get it from crappy gas and sweating that occurs in the tank during temperature changes.
Also, where you have penetrated the chassis with the fuel line make sure you at least grommet the holes, or best, clamp the fuel line on either side of the penetration to ensure that the line can never come in contact with the “knife-edge” created by the frame hole. Continued…….

Comment on Wheels – Continued by Don

Don — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 20:11:48 +0000

I do have an air rotary file that I hadn’t thought of – thanks for the tip Joe … I think that just might do the trick. I let you know when I get to work on that part of the project again. In the interim, I’m back on the brake system. I’m having a custom hose made up for the rear brake hookup to the hard lines but more on that later on when it’s finished.

Comment on Steering Anyone? by Don

Don — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 20:04:28 +0000

That certainly is a thought Joe, that is, not needing a telescopic wheel. I’m mocking up the three models I have and will determine what works best in the space available in the Vicky. At the moment, the wheel from a GM van is short and loaded with features – with a little luck, it might represent a viable alternative to seriously consider.

Comment on Steering Anyone? by Joe Elkins

Joe Elkins — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 10:31:02 +0000

Don,
I used a sterring wheel out of an 80’s Firebird. It is a tilt wheel only. I don’t believe you will need a telescoping wheel. Remember the interior of this car is akin to an old VW bug. I would not suggest a column shift either, as it will requre linkage installation. With the large engine you are installing, this could give you fits. Also and upmost, make sure you get the loom plug mate for the electrics. It will cost you more, the guy at the wrecking yard cut the loom off as long as possible for me (he gave it to me free). Then all you have to do is mount a terminal strip on the dash side of the firewall and do your splicing there (The column will have a plug that mates to the loom plug.)
Joe

Comment on Wheels – Continued by Joe Elkins

Joe Elkins — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 10:08:48 +0000

Don,
If that is the only problem with the wheels,use a air rotary file with a carbide cutter to enlarge the hole. If you don’t have that tool, buy one, you will need it later on. Cheapies found at Harbor Freight. Carbide cutters come in avariety of shapes. They will cost more than the cheap tool.
Joe